วันเสาร์ที่ 13 กุมภาพันธ์ พ.ศ. 2553

Uncovering Ang Thong's hidden gems

Uncovering Ang Thong's hidden gems
UPDATE : 29 December 2009


Staff Writer

Located about 105 kilometers from Bangkok, the province of Ang Thong gets its name from its geographical suitability for rice cultivation – hence the name ‘Golden Basin’.

The province’s main town, which is fairly small and quiet, dates back to the 7th century, while the province was also caught up in the conflict in nearby Ayutthaya province with the Burmese during the 14-18th centuries.

The Chao Phraya River runs through the province, which also boasts lush, green rice fields.

ThaiAsiaToday.com recently joined a one-day trip organized by the Siam Society, which uncovered some hidden treasures within the districts of Chaiyo, Pa Mok, Pho Thong, and Wiset Chai Chan.

Pa Mok district
Pa Mok district is home to Wat Tha Suthawat, which features traditional paintings portraying modern day-to-day life in the province on its western wall. The other walls portray traditional stories of the life of the Buddha.

Several vignettes depict members of the Royal family providing an audience to villagers, which likely led to Royal-initiated projects aimed at supporting the well-being of the community. These show locals producing basketry, terracotta figurines, and weaving items of clothing.

Within the temple compound is a center for the production of terracotta figurines as seen in the vignettes just described. Presented on square-shaped platforms, the figurines are seen taking part in a variety of traditional games and activities.


Just a few kilometers away from Wat Tha Suthawat, alongside the Chao Phraya, is Wat Pa Mok, home to a beautiful Sukhothai-style reclining Buddha image. The origin of this Buddha image unknown, although one story suggests it floated down river and sank in front of the temple.

The abbot of the temple had apparently had a dream that the image sought refuge at the temple to make the most of its shady Mok (Apocynaceae) trees. So when he learned of the sunken image, he told villagers to retrieve it and build a hall in which to house it. The temple and the hall housing the image had to relocated further inland in 1727 as the banks of the river began collapsing.

Later, during the reign of King Rama IV (1851-1868), the temple was renovated, and it was again given an overhaul in 1942 during World War II.

An annual festival pays homage to the reclining Buddha in October. Villagers gather at the temple to attach gold leaf to it, as well as to watch traditional boat races on the river in front of the temple. Teams from across the country compete in these races in long, narrow wooden boats.

Tambon Ekaraj
Within Pa Mok district’s tambon (sub-district) of Ekaraj is a community known as the Drum-Making Village.


Almost all the households located within the community make a living by producing drums and other percussion instruments used within traditional Thai musical ensembles.

Drums of various shapes and styles are displayed outside the wooden homes located along the village’s main road. An outdoor area in each home is given over to the production of the instruments. Visitors are more than welcome to watch the instruments being carefully produced by hand.

The instruments produced are distributed via retail outlets specializing in traditional musical instruments. Many musicians are said to actually travel to the area in search of the perfect instrument. They can then peruse the various shophouses and try out individual instruments before deciding on which one produces the best sound.

Chaiyo district
The temple of Wat Chaiyo Wora Wihan is the most significant attraction in Chaiyo district, which lies to the north of Pa Mok district.

Located alongside the Chao Phraya River, the temple was built in 1887. The main attraction among Buddhists is Phra Mahabuddhapim, a huge Buddha image positioned in a meditation posture in the temple’s vihara (assembly hall).

The image was crafted during the reign of King Rama V (1868-1910) in the same style as Luangpoh Toh, a Buddha image located at the Bangkok temple of Wat Kalayanamitr.

Amid a deep hum of Buddhist chanting, visitors can also find out what the future has in store for them by trying out Siemsee fortune telling.

This consists of a container containing a number of individually numbered sticks. The enquirer shakes the container until a stick eventually falls out. The number found on the stick will relate to a piece of paper containing the enquirer’s fortune. This form of fortune telling has Chinese roots and is also known among some foreigners as Chinese Fortune Sticks. In the US, these sticks are known as Chi Chi Sticks.

It is said that if you successfully lift a small metallic elephant located on the floor in front of Phra Mahabuddhapim with a single finger first time, after making a wish, the wish will come true. However, if you successfully lift the elephant a second time, the wish won’t come true.

Pho Thong district
Lying to the northwest of Chaiyo district is Pho Thong district, home to the remarkable temple of Wat Khun Inthapramun.

A major focal point of the temple is a huge (50-meter-long), white reclining Buddha image, which is located outdoors.

One story suggests that Khun Inthapramun embezzled taxes bound for the government to lengthen the Buddha image, which was originally 40-m in length. This tale goes on to say that he was flogged to death without revealing the source of his finances.

Another version of the story simply states that Inthapramun financed the work, which was greatly appreciated by the community, and so locals decided to name the temple after him to honor his efforts.

Wiset Chai Chan district
West of Chaiyo district is Wiset Chai Chan district, home of Wat Khien.

The ubosot (ordination hall) at Wat Khien contains a number of impressive ancient murals dating back to the Ayutthaya period (1350-1767), which portray the previous lives of the Buddha. They include scenes depicting the Himavanta Forest, a forest which in Buddhist literature encircles the universe.

Although parts of the walls have been affected by damp from the ground and leaky roof, the remains are still impressive. The most distinguishing features are the use of bright colors, including red and dark blue, along with gold decorative features that provide a pleasant contrast.

Among the subjects found within the paintings are: devas (heavenly beings); mythical beasts; palaces; as well as scenes from the everyday lives of villagers.

A new structure was built several years ago to protect the murals by covering the whole of the old ubosot. This building is not always open, so visitors should seek permission from the abbot to take a look at the paintings.

Cultural-oriented retreat

Ang Thong’s cultural and religious attractions serve as elegant reminders of the past, with strong links to the present.

The province’s rural roots are tied closely to local forebears’ Buddhist beliefs as a form of oral history, while supernatural beliefs also prevail.

Over time, each temple, painted vignette, or even ruin has its own story to tell. So Ang Thong province awaits those who are interested in experiencing historic surroundings, which provide the visitor with a memorable taste of its rich culture.

ThaiAsiaToday.com visited Ang Thong province as part of a cultural excursion organized by the Siam Society. For further details of upcoming trips, visit the Siam Society's website at http://www.siam-society.org.

source : manager.co.th


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